Trade winds pick up, huge surf continues
HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) - A high pressure system moving across the Central Pacific basin will keep breezy trade winds in the forecast through Wednesday. Scattered to numerous showers will favor windward and mountain areas today and tomorrow. Southerly winds will develop with scattered showers forecast on Thursday as a cold front approaches the islands from the northwest. This cold front will sweep through the state from west to east bringing numerous showers to each island as the frontal band passes.
The current large northwest swell is still producing warning- level surf along north and west facing shores of the smaller islands and advisory-level waves for Big Island shores. In addition to the life-threatening surf, impacts could also include significant beach erosion and overwash onto vulnerable low-lying coastal areas, especially during the peak of the high tide near daybreak this morning. The large northwest swell will also cause significant surges and breaking waves at harbor entrances, such as in Haleiwa and Kahului. This swell will gradually lower through the middle of the week.
Choppy surf will return along east facing shores as the trades return. Surf will remain small along most south facing shores, except where the large northwest swell wraps around in some areas.
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