High surf warning for Kauai, advisory for all other islands - Hawaii News Now - KGMB and KHNL

High surf warning for Kauai, advisory for all other islands

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HANALEI, Kauai (HawaiiNewsNow) – Officials with the Ocean Safety Bureau are urging residents and visitors to avoid going on the wet sand or in the water at all north and eastside beaches on the island of Kauai.

Extremely high surf with 20 to 30-ft faces is breaking in these areas resulting in hazardous ocean conditions.

Those wanting to go swimming or snorkeling should go to other guarded beaches around the island - Poipu, Salt Pond and Kekaha.

For more information about ocean safety, please log on to www.kauaiexplorer.com, talk to a county lifeguard, or contact the Ocean Safety Bureau at 241-4984.

There is also a high surf advisory in effect until 6:00 AM Friday for all Hawaiian islands. Surf along north facing shores of Niihau, Oahu, Molokai and Maui is forecasted to be at advisory levels of 12 to 18 feet through tonight. Meanwhile, east facing shores of Molokai, Lanai, Maui and the Big Island will have surf at advisory levels of 10 to 14 feet.

Beach goers are being urged to stay out of the water.

The strong high pressure system far north of the islands has combined with a nearby low pressure system to create a large north-northeast swell that is now moving through Hawaiian waters. The swell is forecast to turn toward the east-northeast today and tonight with the swell and surf expected to remain elevated into the weekend. A gradual decrease in sea and swell heights is expected on Friday, but surf will remain elevated along windward shores into the weekend.

Outlook through Tuesday Nov 17: the current north northeast swell will swing to east northeast gradually through the rest of the work week before subsiding. Surf heights will be above advisory threshold for east facing shores through Friday afternoon.

Surf heights are forecast heights of the face or front of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, in the zone of maximum refraction. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.